Journalism

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Africa (analysis)
2005
light and dark in Africa

Light and Dark in Africa

They say that light rays puncture the heavens at 300 million metres per second - faster than anything else in existence. But Stephen Lewis has walked among the dead in Africa, and there the velocity of darkness far exceeds the shuffling pace of light. read more

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Swaziland
2005
Life in a Kingdom of Death

Life in a Kingdom of Death

Nceka, Swaziland -- Mfan'fikile Dlamini is starting over.
At the ripe old age of 16, the orphaned former herdboy and former abused child is going to school for the first time in his life.
He says he is happy, too - and that's probably another first. read more

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Zimbabwe
2005
Zimbabwe Then and Now

Zimbabwe Then and Now

Harare -- It is nighttime when I return to Zimbabwe, and what I notice first are the street lamps.
They don't work, or most of them don't. Many are
beginning to list precariously to the side. Not a few have fallen
down, and their rusting corpses sprawl across the tousled blond
grass in the African darkness. read more

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Africa (analysis)
2003
Into Africa

Into Africa

Consider the Zambezi.
From its headwaters in northern Zambia, the fourth-longest waterway in Africa wanders south and then east, tumbles over Victoria Falls and washes into Lake Kariba, where it loops north toward a town called Chirundu, later arching through Mana Pools National Park and across the breadth of Mozambique, on its long journey to the Indian Ocean. read more

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Afghanistan
2006
Front line in a PR war

Front line in a PR war

Sanjaray, Afghanistan -- Some soldiers wage warfare with rifles and mortars, while others bear silver briefcases brimming with cash.
Warrant Officer Dean Henley of Richmond Hill counts himself among the second group. read more

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Afghanistan
2006
A Tourist in Kandahar

A Tourist in Kandahar

Kandahar, Afghanistan -- "Welcome to paradise," declares your Afghan guide, as he aims his four-wheel-drive vehicle beneath a pair of concrete canopies that form the southern gateway to this frenetic outpost of dust, danger and death. read more

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Cuba
2006
La Milagrosa Reigns Supreme

La Milagrosa Reigns Supreme

Havana, Cuba -- In the city of the dead, she is the uncontested queen. Her name is Amelia Goyri de Adot, and she is better known to Cubans as la Milagrosa or the Miraculous One. Never mind that she has been dead for more than 100 years. In this tropical land pervaded by saints, spirits and superstitions, a deceased person is by no means a defunct person. Just the opposite, in fact. read more

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Cuba
2005
Song

Cuba for a Song

Havana -- No matter where you wander in Cuba, chances are that sooner or later you'll wind up sipping rum in some fine old place, reminiscing about past loves and former days, while a woman sings.
Might as well face it now, before you board that southbound plane. read more

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Mexico
2006
Air

Air

Mexico City -- On a clear day, you can see Iztaccihuatl.
Which is not to say that you can pronounce it.
One of two massive, snow-glazed volcanoes that crown the high blue horizon a two-hour drive southeast of Mexico City, Iztaccihuatl (pronounced Ees-ta-SEE-wah-tul) used to be perpetually invisible from the streets of this Latin megalopolis, its four connected peaks invariably obscured by the nearly permanent shroud of smog that once covered the Mexican capital, among the largest and most severely contaminated cities on the planet. read more

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Mexico
2003
Lunch

Lunch

Mexico City -- It's 3 p.m. in the land that time forgot, and the
first patrons of the afternoon are strolling onto the shaded
patio of a gastronomic institution known as Restaurante
Bellinghausen. read more

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Mexico
2003
Mexico: A natural high

Mexico: A Natural High

The afternoon sunshine splashes down, and the first-class bus from Auto-transportes de Oriente loops its precarious way along Highway 135, bearing us south toward Oaxaca, in the rugged and lofty hinterland of Mexico. read more

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Israel
2008
How Hebrew Rose from the Dead

How Hebrew Rose from the Dead

Jerusalem -- A derelict two-storey house slouches on Ethiopia St., not far from the limestone ramparts of ancient Jerusalem.
More than a century ago, this house was inhabited by Eliezer Ben Yehuda. But you wouldn't know it now.
read more

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Iraq
2007
On the Road to Kurdistan

On the Road to Kurdistan

Irbil, Iraq --In order to appreciate some of the practical subtleties that nowadays distinguish the southern and northern regions of Iraq, the astute visitor should first conduct a simple exercise in word substitution. read more

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West Bank
2007
Music Soars in the Land of Sadness

Music Soars in the Land of Sadness

Taybeh, West Bank -- The concert commenced at 7 sharp, here in the last entirely Christian community in the Holy Land, an illuminated rosary of limestone houses and Christmas lights strung across the high Samarian Hills, 20 kilometres northeast of Jerusalem. read more

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Lebanon
2007
Rimbaud Makes Way for Rambo

Rimbaud Makes Way for Rambo

Beirut -- There's a deal being offered on Mazda automobiles in this frenetic Middle Eastern capital, a city where little stays the same for long. "Turn me on," urges a billboard on Zalka St. in the east end of Beirut. "Zero down payment, 1.99 per cent interest. Limited quantity." Sounds good - but what is most intriguing about this advertisement is not the nature of the offer. It is the nature of the language in which the offer is being made. read more

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Israel
2007
Rockets on the Galilee

Rockets on the Galilee

Tiberias, Israel -- If you can't make money, then you might as well go for a swim in the Sea of Galilee.
That was what Michel Malul elected to do yesterday - a decision he won't soon forget. read more

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